Shopping Insights and A Great Souvenir Suggestion From Nepal

Few things actually describe or define Nepal like thanka paintings do. The detail and devotion speak about the better side of Nepal and her people and these original paintings last a lifetime. With Buddhism well established and the fastest growing religion on the planet today, these paintings are a Nepali souvenir whose time has come. 

My problem has been where to buy one. Most tourists are not aware of the commission structure in Nepal. If your tour guide takes you into a thanka school you will pay the commission on top of the normal store price. No problem, you say? A 10% commission would probably be fine for most tourists. What would you say to a 100% commission added to the normal price? This literally doubles the cost. Are you happy with that? Most consumers would be quite put off by that, but that is the part of the process tourists are NEVER told. This is a fact-the 100% commission is added to the price of the thanka if you go in with a tour/trekking guide. Even if it's someone you met on the street, or that guy that gets into the taxi with you. That is the system here in Nepal. I am neither making this up, nor am I exaggerating.

 

This craft shop has enjoyed Lonely Planet referrals for years. If a Nepali 'friend' takes you to a place like this you will likely be paying his commission on top of the price.

The other problem with it is that you will have to spend a lot of time looking at the paintings. It will be difficult for you to extract yourself from the shop without buying something-at this inflated price. Most tourists have a limited time to be in Nepal with many things to see and do, so why should you waste your morning being high pressured to buy something you probably didn't know you needed. The other problem is they are so beautiful that one can easily think the value is much higher-because it should be. Creating these pieces is an act of devotion in itself and the energy they carry is simply divine.

I went to this Nepali crafts exhibit and found many lovely handicrafts and some wonderful merchants. This is a loom they still use in Nepal.

I’d like to let you in on another secret most tourists do not fully understand. The value of the truth in certain parts of Nepal is different than it is in the West. For example, I was walking along in Thamel, Kathmandu's tourist district, when I was stopped by a young man with hats, gloves and socks hanging on a make-shift pegboard in his street shop (actually attached to the outside of a building). I demonstrated an interest in the hats, which seemed to be made from natural materials. "These are all made from hemp," he proudly explained. "No, they aren’t," I said as I put the hat down-like I knew what I was talking about. Without even hesitating long enough to take a breath, "No, those aren't but these over here are 100 % hemp." I've seen this attitude demonstrated countless times; there is no shame in lying. I suggest in my book that the correct response to, "What brings you to Nepal?" is "Business." That is the reason I suggest to tell this white lie.I only suggest sidestepping the truth one other time in the book, and I never suggest slipping into national parks, temples or UNESCO sites to save money.

This music store in Kathmandu can provide some amazing values to take back home.

So, what to do about these lovely paintings? I’ve found one thanka painting shop and school with a different business model. These young men, Kamal and Sanjaya, do not pay commission to tour guides. When I ask about a wholesale price on one Kamal always gives me a strait answer. Student thankas, for example, can wholesale for a lot less than you might think, depending on the size and difficulty of the piece. However, if you want a genuine keepsake that will last for the rest of your life, a master level painting will be a real bargain. You can even commission one while you are here and they can send it back for you.

My suggestion is to have your thanka put in a silk border like this. You can even choose the colors.

Not only do they have an honest core, but they do not live above poverty level, even as the owners. They live a peaceful life above their thanka shop with the students. To give you a bit more understanding of the lifestyle they live, in the winter time they come to my apartment to visit me and take a hot shower before they leave. Yes, not only do they lack hot water, but Changu Narayan Village is completely dry of running water, as is most of Bhaktapur and presumably the Kathmandu Valley prior to monsoon.

This is a close-up to give you an idea of the detail of these art pieces.

When Kamal and Sanjaya come to visit me they cook dinner for me and then clean the kitchen. They never accept money from me, and in keeping with the true Nepali spirit, have filled my apartment with lovely, high-quality thankas as gifts. 

Although I tell you about Kamal and Sanjaya and describe their behavior and lifestyle, most of the tourists I’ve met are equally attached to some of their Nepali friends. That is one of the things I love most about Nepal, the lovely people who just love you because that’s what they do. Many of those people are thanka shop owners and artists, merchants and even politicians. They are equally as impressive as the Himalayas. 

So, unless you happened to have met an honest thanka shop owner to whom you would like to give business, I’d like to suggest that you take an afternoon to see Changu Narayan while you are staying in Bhaktapur. Particularly prior to or during monsoon, you will enjoy spending a few days in Bhaktapur instead of Kathmandu. As I state in my book, Bhaktapur has better weather, less pollution and a cleaner municipality. And, yes, the guest houses do truck in water. It makes a great base for exploring the southeast portion of the Kathmandu Valley and is the beginning of many free warm-up day treks and hikes. There are lots to see in this area and there is even a new, Western style water park opening soon just outside Bhaktapur. I will definitely borrow someone's child to go with me to check it out when it opens.

The Sunapati Thanka School and Shop is located on the steps directly across from the Changu Museum. Furba, the mask shop owner is just after the landing area where you would turn to the museum, up a few stairs and on the right. I recently mentioned him in another blog post.

Sunapati Thanka Painting School, Kamal Bhujel, KamalSunapati@gmail.com +977 984 111 1599 Changunarayan-1, Bhaktapur, Nepal

This is the Sunapati Thanka School and shop. This is actually where they live. Notice that there is no glass in the windows.

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Happy 2070 In Bhaktapur!

Guest Writer: Morwenna Murray, along with Amanda's comments and pictures after

Last Saturday was Nepali New Years' Eve and it was celebrated in style in the beautiful, ancient city of Bhaktapur. This small town is 14km from Kathmandu and the narrow cobbled streets and breathtaking temples makes you feel like you have just stepped back into the Medieval era. 

If you come to Nepal around this time of year you don't have to actually make an effort to plan to see something special. You can just listen for the drums and other instruments and follow the sounds.

Bisket Jatra is the nine-day festival celebrating the new year, starting usually four days before new years day, then carrying on for four days after it. Part of the festival involves a huge 10 metre tall rickety, wooden charriot, carrying images of the god Bhairab. On the first day of the festival locals gather around the imposing chariot in Taumadhi square and a tug of war ensues between the east and west sides of Bhaktapur.  

One of the most striking features of the chariot are the eyes painted on the great wooden wheels, which eerily seem to watch you. While I was admiring the chariot in the aftermath of the celebrations, many local children were using the structure as a kind of huge climbing frame. It was very peaceful and relaxing to watch the children playing on this holy chariot, partaking in a ceremony that probably hasn't changed for hundreds of years in this ancient town.

Four days later, after New Years' Day, a pole is pulled down, again in a huge tug-of-war. As the pole falls to the ground, the new years celebration, Bisket Jatra, has officially come to its end.

Celebrating the start of spring and the Nepali new year according to the Vikram calendar in the beautiful Bhaktapur Durbar square is an unforgettable experience. However this new years was tinged with sadness due to the death of two revelers who were crushed under the chariot. Reportedly the tragedy occurred when celebrators jumped off the chariot whilst worshipers were pulling the huge wooden structure through town. You can read more about this by following the link below.

The crowd was incredible during the festival.

www.abc.net.au/news/2013-04-11/two-crushed-by-giant-wooden-chariot-at-nepal-festival/4624074

This is how they do the pulling during the festival.

More from Amanda: Throughout this time you will come upon what seems to be spontaneous celebrations. Not only is this chariot pulled through the streets in an act of tug of war, but there is a ceremony involving this pole, as mentioned above. Each night the festival moves to another place within the city. As Kalpana and I came from a trip to the Dhulikel Hospital, we followed the music to Pottery Square to find more interesting things to see.

This pole, representing Lord Bhirub, would soon fall to the ground in the last night's festivities. As you can see, this man wasn't the first to worship this pole.

Local clubs parade through Bhaktapur playing music on any day, but during festivals like this one it becomes an even more common scene. Often they are dressed in their club's uniforms or native Nepali dress. This is the Newari traditional attire, easily recognizable by the red stripe.

Right there at Pottery Square was this little group performing Vajan, the Hindu prayers chanted in song. It is beautiful even when a person doesn't understand the language.

Just like Visa/Mastercards' slogan of a few years ago, "Ganesh is everywhere I want to be." Here he is at Pottery Square in Bhaktapur. The pole, pictured above, was planted directly outside this temple. If you like Ganesh you will really love Bhaktapur because you can hardly go outside without coming across him. Always amazing, Ganesh! 

Earlier this week I was riding through Bhaktapur with my Nepali son, Kamal, and who did I see coming toward me, but Ganesh! What is really interesting to me is the way the energy around these processions become filled with excitement and lightness whenever Ganesh is around. It's just magical.

So, there I was in total amazement as to how this was happening, like a very lucky/blessed moment for me. Kamal automatically knew to stop and suggested that I go take a look. He and Sanjaya, his brother, are always, always so kind to me. It was Sanjaya who took me to Indra Jatra a few months ago to see the Royal Kumari. As we stood on the tiny, crowded balcony Sanjaya literally stood there for an hour or more with hardly a glance. He never complained or tried to hurry me. These two Nepali young men with the thangka school in Changu Narayan have been the kindest of all the people I've met in Nepal. It seems no matter what I do for them they always out-do me by showing me more kindness. Seriously, if I invite them to dinner they will cook and even clean the kitchen!

I heard myself ask if I could touch and heard, 'Why not?' so I got a tika from Ganesh, a lovely blessing. That is one of the things I enjoy about Hinduism, that with only a few exceptions, anyone can participate in it. I am not Hindu and describe my relationship with the gods as only a fan, not a devotee. I am very aware of the difference and try to always be respectful to the gods, as well as the actual devotees. Please do not abuse our privilege of sharing in these festivities. I have heard tourists of other faiths actually go into the forbidden temples as if they are Hindu. Please do not do this-even if you are dark-skinned and could pass for Asian. 

Safety tips for festivals: Last year only one person died during this New Years' Festival, Bisket Jatra, in Bhaktapur. This year at least two died and more were injured. If you want to enjoy this, or any other festival here in Nepal, stay safe. If you get injured you will need to take full responsibility for yourself, so be careful. Like any crowd anywhere, do not take your valuables with you. It is also a good idea to scout around beforehand to find a good location to safely view the festivities. Rooftop restaurants at many guest houses are often the best places. Just check to see if they expect to be within view of the action. It's also best to ask multiple people due to the Nepali habit of telling you what you want to hear. If you think I am exaggerating just randomly tell a Nepali that you would like to see some rain. Ask them if they think it will rain soon. No matter how blue the sky looks you will more likely than not hear rain in the weather report from the person. 

 My thanks to Morwenna Murray for sharing her take on this festival.

Did you know I wrote an eBook filled with tips on getting the most out of your visit to Nepal?

Satisfaction Guaranteed: NO FINE PRINT. If you don't truly love Nepal: A Tourist’s Manual, please send for 100% money back. If you are not completely satisfied just send your purchase information along with a note to: FrugalTravelsNepal@gmail.com

Nepal: A Tourist’s Manual-For more information check out our website. If you enjoy this blog and the website you will enjoy the 299 page eBook. It is a well illustrated, easy read with over 1,000 tips to help you get the most out of Nepal.

Visit my website: Nepal: A Tourist's Manual

Historical, Hand Carved Wooden Masks, a Great Value at Changu Narayan Temple Village

There are many beautiful and quite unique items to purchase in Nepal. Musical instruments, pasmina scarves, thangkas, pottery, etc., and so many people who are in your face with them, it is difficult to know what to buy or who to buy from. After two years I still can’t get a good deal on a pashmina scarf and had to just shake my head in amazement yesterday when my British guest showed me a beautiful scarf she got for only 1,000 NRs. 

 

One of my favorite places in the area is the ancient Changu Narayan Temple site. It makes a nice side trip when you come to Bhaktapur, a must see in Nepal. The bus isn't much slower than a taxi would be so I recommend catching a local bus from Bhaktapur for 25 NRs. When a bus stops and is obviously too full just wait for another one. I've seen people hanging out the sides so often and it really makes me nervous. My eBook, Nepal: On a Budget, or whatever I begin calling it, gives more detail to safely riding buses in Nepal. Often, if you let the crowded bus pass the next one will have sitting room.  

One great value I would like to tell about is the historical masks. My friend, Furba, from Changu Narayan has been so kind as to explain some interesting things about these masks and has even given me two beautiful masks that I am very proud of. I would not have had an idea that they are more than decorative if I had not been living here and enjoying the festivals. I would not have known the power they have if I had not experienced it myself. 

 First of all, I’d like to assure my readers that these masks are made from wood that is readily available in Nepal from the holi or elder trees. Either of these trees come to full maturity in less than 5 years and can be found all over the area.

Tree for making masks

Because these masks are made from this soft wood, they are lighter than you would expect and easy to take home. Each of these masks are hand carved and hand painted, yet are one of the most affordable items to take back home, even when Westerners send them by post.  

When I got my first Bhirub mask I didn’t expect anything out of the ordinary, but the energy changed in my apartment and I found myself unable to contain anger anymore. My Hindu friends who know Bhirub well explain that Bhirub is the god of anger and if you let him he will take that anger you have in and around you and will take it as a sacrifice. I just can’t get worked up about those little annoyances and I realize now that they were all so small and petty I’ve decided to give all my anger to Bhirub (just by intend-no elaborate formality). If I were going back to the West, I would be sure to bring one of these masks home for someone I love in spite of his temper problem. It would also be great for anyone in customer service.

 The Historical Mask Shop has masks in a variety of themes, from the traditional Nepali, clown, African masks, om plaques, and even some contemporary style. For those who enjoy expanding their spiritual constructs these masks will allow you to bring home a bit of Nepali spirituality. Otherwise you might fall back into that ‘our invisible friend is better than yours.’ 

One interesting thing Furba helped me to understand is that Buddhists have gods like the Hindus. These masks are used when someone dies because the recently departed can get confused and not want to leave the earthly realm. In Buddhism, the lama wears the mask, chants and dances to help them to understand. This belief is similar to souls in the West that get lost in transition and stay behind to haunt homes. 

If you come to Changu Narayan Temple Village you can find Furba’s Historical Mask shop as you go up the steps. You will come to the museum on the right with Sunapati Thanka Shop on the left. The mask shop is just beyond these and on the left. They can make custom masks and can export at wholesale prices if you are looking for a Nepali project.

Manufacturer, wholesaler, exporter and retailer of custom, hand carved wooden masks. Historical Mask Work Shop, Changunarayan-1, Bhaktapur, Nepal. Furba Lama, +977 9841 620726, Email: lama_ff@yahoo.com

This is at the top of the stairs, a beautiful, ancient temple.

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